DIY Studio:Part 1 - Studio Walls

***Remember to check your local building codes before doing any of your own renovations; and, get everything inspected by a certified professional before putting the final touches on your project.***

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Top View

1. Build & install your wall with staggered 2x3 or 2x4 studs on 2x6 headers

2. Weave your Fire&Sound batting insulation
3. Install your Soundproofing Drywall (usually green in colour) ***some people recommend gluing the drywall onto the studs in order to avoid using screws or nails which might conduct sound right into the framework. The green drywall texture is, in my opinion, not really conducive to this approach (it might break apart and fall off before you get to the next step). If you want, just minimize the use of screws by putting in just enough to hold the sheet in place. Seriously though, you'll be screwing the latts through into the studs in the next step anyway so......

4. Install your horizontal 1x3 lattes with screws going into each alternate stud (since every second stud is recessed)

5. Install your drywall using as few screws as possible.


Other Tips:

• Use screws wherever possible since nails shake loose prematurely particularly considering the nature of the sound vibrations that will be going around.
• Holes are our enemies!!! A hole the size of a dime can apparently reduce your soundproofing effectiveness by as much as 25%. I'm not sure if that's true, but once you've put this much effort, why take a chance?
• As I said before, always check your local building codes before doing any of your own renovations; and, get everything inspected by a certified professional before putting the final touches on your project. Always use CSA Approved (or equivalent for your country) materials.
• When prepping holes for lights, fixtures, or wall outlets, make sure you cut as precisely as possible and backfill with extra sound batting around the junction boxes. Beware of fire codes/fire hazards!!! Consider using CSA Approved expanding foam to fill gaps - I used this in tough spots I couldn't reach to fill by hand.
• When using screws, some people recommend pre-drilling your holes and filling them with caulking... a nice touch, I'll admit... if you've got a couple years to tack onto the length of your project (I didn't do this).
• Don't be fooled, this is going to be expensive. Cost out your materials first and then add 25% - that'll be your final cost. For a perfectly rectangular 18x12 room with two windows and one door, I would estimate a base cost of $3000. Add 25% and that gives you $3750 - of course, that includes the cost of industrial carpeting, soundproofing the ceiling as well and all your wiring and lighting and whatever hardware you require. It adds up pretty quick.

In my next post, I'll show you how to build soundproof boxes to fit over your air vents and air returns.

Luc